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Teething issue with my lovely new Guvnor

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12:35 pm
Apr 26, 2011


RMG

Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire

Regular

posts 4

Greetings,

I have just taken delivery of my Guvnor 3 speed and I’m completely smitten with it. It is as they say, the business. There are however just a couple of issues that seem to irritating me. Firstly it seems to slip out of first gear into second ever so easily. I’ve managed to stop this from happening when riding in a straight line but a sharp corner in either direction causes enough tension release in the cable to initiate an automatic gear change! I’ll probably find the right tension setting soon but just wondered if anyone else had experienced this.

Secondly and more importantly my wrists really ache after a ride. I’ve got the handle bars as high as the headstock allows and the seat is now adjusted for my leg length but I still seem to have all my weight on my wrists. Is this normal? Will I get used to it or should I be re-thinking the handlebar/seat position?


All comments welcome.

Richard. Smile 

1:21 pm
Apr 26, 2011


David Terry

Harrogate, Yorkshire.

Regular

posts 102

Welcome Richard, I hav’nt experienced any problems with my three-speed Guv but my wifes Pashley Poppy was doing something similar. It was just a case of tweaking the cable adjuster. The set-up procedure is on P11 of the Guv’nor handbook. Make sure the cables are not binding anywhere as you turn the ‘bars.

For the wrist problem, try rotating the ‘bars in the stem, bringing the grips slightly higher and also try sliding the seat forward on it’s rails. It’s amazing how much difference even small adjustments can make.

Enjoy the new Guv’

dt


2:12 pm
Apr 26, 2011


Morse

Regular

posts 38

Dear Richard,


Many congratulations!

I can’t comment on the gear issues as my own steed is a single speed but I have had similar problems with my Roadster (5 speed SA) and, as with Mrs Terry’s Poppy, the issue was resolved by tweaking the cable adjuster.

I agree with Mr Terry’s solution of rotating the ‘bar upwards, which has made a significant difference to my own comfort. Only this weekend I also tilted the nose of the saddle upwards slightly which seems to work. I suspect that finding the ideal position is an ongoing process as I’m still ‘tweaking’ after 2 years of ownership.


Cheers!

2:28 pm
Apr 26, 2011


The Cycling Photographer

Moderator

posts 407

Enough said.

2:38 pm
Apr 26, 2011


RMG

Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire

Regular

posts 4

Many thanks for such useful advice chaps. I’ll have a good think about the saddle/ handlebar relationship and try a few alternative positions.

Cheers.


3:20 pm
Apr 26, 2011


Joff

Regular

posts 9

I had a similar issue with the handlebar arrangement. I have changed my handlebars for another pair of Northroads. The new ones have less sweep forward and less drop which makes a great improvement in comfort while still looking the part. They also weigh at leat half as much as they are alloy.

The other thing I thought about would be a stem with less forward reach.

I suppose that the 22.5 is a little big perhaps. I,m at the max for the 20.5 and the min height for the 22.5. My last road bike was a 24 inch frame! We wore them big in those days Smile


The gear issue sounds as though the cable is too loose. Tighten as per the instructions or look online a Sheldon Brown’s page on the subject.

3:36 pm
Apr 26, 2011


ukmmrg

Nottingham

New

posts 2

Richard,

I took delivery of my 20.5″ three speed Guv’nor last September as part of the cycle2work scheme and have very much enjoyed the experience.  I have not had problems with the Sturmey Archer gears but can empathise with your riding position problems as I also experienced sore wrists and also an aching back.  Unfortunately, tweaking the position of the handlebars/saddle position helped slightly but it was clear that the major surgery was required.  I needed a more upright riding position, additional height in the seat post and less weight on my wrists.  This is my solution:

  • I replaced the seat post with a Thomson Elite seat post to give extra height;
  • Replaced the Nitto quill stem with and articulated stem from Promax.  I got the idea from a dutch bike I saw in Nottingham, and although Nitto do manfacture longer stems they are as rare as the proverbial “hen’s teeth;”
  • Finally and with regret I removed the leather grips and replaced the with something softer.

The major surgery above saved my Guv’ner otherwise she might have appeared on Ebay.  The riding position is now fine and dandy, but I have a suspicion that the next frame size (22.5″) would have suited me better, but the Guv’ner is made to order and I did not know any other owner in Nottingham I will probably never know.

Regards,


Mike.

3:49 pm
Apr 26, 2011


RMG

Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire

Regular

posts 4

Mike,

Mine is also a 20.5″ which was the suggested size for my inside leg measurement and I also purchased it through the cycle2work scheme! Small world.

I don’t feel that raising the saddle will help. I want a lower seat position to reduce the weight on my wrists. The suggestion to move the seat forward sounded good and I’ll definately give this a try.

If I could get the heatstock higher I would try this too. No doubt I can improve things substantially with my newly aquired knowledge.

Thanks again.

R.

ps. Before anyone asks, I’m 5ft 8″ and about 12.5 stone so I don’t think it’s my body weight causing the problem.


4:22 pm
Apr 26, 2011


Alex McF

Regular

posts 88

Richard,

Just to echo the other fellows’ words.  The gear tweak is a known issue.  You may have to do the fine tuning of the spindle thingy several times — I did — then it settles down.  Not quite sure why turning throws it out of kilter unless it is very finely balanced at the moment.

Re wrist ache:  I agree that raising the saddle will probably not help.  Swinging the handlebars up surely will; your weight will be more evenly distributed along the handlebars.  I tried a racier (that is to say angled downwards more)  angle for the bars for a day or two and found a similar problem affecting my wrists.  

Tweaking of the saddle angle and position on its rails pays dividends and as Morse says this can be a continuous process.

Rest assured you will soon be spinning along without a care in the world!


Alex

4:22 pm
Apr 26, 2011


Alex McF

Regular

posts 88

Richard,

Just to echo the other fellows’ words.  The gear tweak is a known issue.  You may have to do the fine tuning of the spindle thingy several times — I did — then it settles down.  Not quite sure why turning throws it out of kilter unless it is very finely balanced at the moment.

Re wrist ache:  I agree that raising the saddle will probably not help.  Swinging the handlebars up surely will; your weight will be more evenly distributed along the handlebars.  I tried a racier (that is to say angled downwards more)  angle for the bars for a day or two and found a similar problem affecting my wrists.  

Tweaking of the saddle angle and position on its rails pays dividends and as Morse says this can be a continuous process.

Rest assured you will soon be spinning along without a care in the world!


Alex

4:54 pm
Apr 26, 2011


Duchy Wheeler

Cornwall. UK

Regular

posts 395

RMG.….…firstly welcome.

Now this Sturmey-Archer problem you are having, you probably will have to adjust after some initial use, the operating cable will bed in. Follow the Owners’ Manual instructions, or better still Sheldon Brown website: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/st.….r/adj.html  

A few tips: put some Tippex or white paint on the end of the indicator spindle, this helps see its position through the sight hole to aid adjustment. Don’t screw the indicator spindle (chain) right home, back it off ½ a turn, also check the operating cable pulley wheel pivot screw (small crosshead) is secure. I had a problem with this screw working loose and the cable slipped off the pulley, resulting in no first gear!  

Safe rides, ‘One & All’.

DW.

5:43 pm
Apr 26, 2011


Duchy Wheeler

Cornwall. UK

Regular

posts 395

RMG.…..just had another thought re. jumping out of 1st. gear.

Check you aren’t clipping the operating cable with your right heel where it runs along the chainstay? That will knock the the gear out of 1st., the best remedy is to replace the MKS ‘Stream’ pedals with MKS ‘Touring’, also see Forum > The Public House > Three Speed Operating Cable, currently on page 18.

Safe rides, ‘One & All’

DW.

7:52 am
Apr 28, 2011


RMG

Newark on Trent, Nottinghamshire

Regular

posts 4

All,

Last night I made a few tweaks which have made a huge difference. They were:

  • Moving the seat forwards 
  • Rotating the handlebars down slightly as I had previously roataed them too far upwards.
  • Tensioning the gear selector cable slightly.

The ride is now much more comfortable and of course, enjoyable. The gear situation has improved so that it now stays in first unless the handlebars are turned so far round to almost touch the crossbar. I can live with this and won’t be dissapointed if it doesn’t improve further but as things bed in more we shall see.

Many thanks again to you all for such speedy and useful advice.

Now I can concentrate on the ride and perhaps meeting other Guvnor owners.

Cheers

Richard.Cool

6:15 pm
Apr 28, 2011


Duchy Wheeler

Cornwall. UK

Regular

posts 395

RMG,

Might I suggest, if you haven’t already done so, check both ends of the black sheathed part of gear operating cable to confirm all parts are seated and located correctly on the gear trigger and the fulcrum clip sleeve, located on the down tube. 

Handlebar movement shouldn’t effect the inner cable movement if both ends of the sheathed cable are correctly and securely fixed.

Safe rides, ‘One & All’.

DW.


3:44 pm
Apr 29, 2011


David Terry

Harrogate, Yorkshire.

Regular

posts 102

RMG, have a look on Youtube at an interesting six minute video entitled “how to fit a road bike” 

Some of that may help. 

dt

11:00 pm
Apr 30, 2011


Richard Cleverly

Guest

16

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